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LIABILITY REQUIREMENTS Every municipal ordinance and local government unit that is available for review, require warning signs spaced approximately every 10 meters or less at approximately eye level height. These municipalities require warning signs from a liability perspective, but it has been shown that these signs, by them selves, are as effective as the fence itself in keeping out trespassers even when, or if the fence is turned off. When you have a lethal looking fence combined with warning signs the fence now becomes almost totally effective is stopping passage through or over the fence. NOTE: there is absolutely NO device or method devised that has proven to be 100% effective, although the electric fence is close. Even prisons are starting to use this method (non-lethal) around the prison grounds in many cases and are finding it very effective. The warning signs take a lightly designed fence and transform it into a “most lethal looking fence. Keep in mind that the electric fence is completely non-lethal and not dangerous to the smallest most vulnerable animal. The fence will administer a stinging and most unpleasant feeling shock, but will not physically harm an animal, child, or adult. So you need to understand, that the fence is an elaborate bluff, that will slap their wrist hard if someone chooses to ignore it. Because of the non-lethal action of the electric fence, the legal liability exposure is very small, however, warning signs about every 10 meters or so, in plain sight, as close to eye level as possible, minimize the legal liability exposure to almost nothing. If you were to plug your fence into the wall outlet/receptacle then you might indeed kill somebody. Your liability exposure is extreme. Your insurance will NOT cover you. Wall voltage is not only dangerous, but mostly not effective. At 220/110 volts AC, when you are on dry cement, and/or wearing rubber slippers which will insulate you from a shock, however, if someone accidentally comes in contact with an electrical ground they may easily be killed. Dry ground combined with insulated footwear is why 10,000 volts is used, so as to carry the shock through the ground and the footwear. The pulse technology is what makes it very painful, but still non-lethal. This technology has been tested and proven for over 75 years of usage around the world. There are safety standards all over the world that when met, insure that the shock is non-lethal". The pulse length is approximately 100 microseconds (0.0001 seconds) If you use house voltage on the fence, the fence now becomes potentially extremely LETHAL ! If you were to hold your arm over a burning candle for several seconds, you would receive a nasty burn. If you were to pass your arm through the flame of an acetylene torch (which is much hotter than a candle) and do it quickly enough, you would escape and not even singe a hair. That is primarily the safety principle with pulsed electricity charging electric fences. The safety standards mandate the maximum voltage (not to exceed 10,000 volts) and the maximum pulse length (not to exceed 300 microseconds) of the pulse and the repetition rate (not more than 90 pulses per minute) of the pulse. TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE:
The best way to
isolate a problem on an electric fence system is 1. The most common problem is vegetation in direct contact with a charged wire. You should trim back and remove any growth of tree fronds, leaves, grass or climbing vines from contact with your electric fence system. Make sure that charged wires are not attached to trees in order to prevent shorting. 2. To test the charger, disconnect it from the fence and read with a "high voltage" voltmeter designed for electric fences, to determine if you have full voltage output. (a regular voltmeter will be destroyed if you try to measure the fence output voltage). The voltage should be the full rated volts on the voltmeter. To double check the charger you can make a jumper from a piece of insulated wire and short across the output terminals. You should be able to draw an arc about 1/10 inch (2.5mm) and will hear a sharp snap sound if the Fence Charger is working properly. 3. With the charger connected to the fence, read the voltage on the built-in volt meter. If the voltage is lower than the rated volts, then check out the following: a) There may be an accidental connection between charged and grounded wires on the fence. Make sure that all of the fence wires are isolated from each other and that only similarly charged wires on multi-wire fences are connected together. b) There may be an accidental connection between a charged wire and earth ground. Make sure that extra ground rods installed along the fence are only connected to the ground return wire, and not a charged wire. Make sure that the charged wire is not touching metal posts or metal objects sitting on the ground. Make sure that a charged wire does not go through water in a plumbing system or through a standing puddle of water. c) The earth ground rod/s may not be adequate or the earth around the ground rods may be too dry to conduct current properly. This condition results in excessive ground voltage and less on your fence. You may have to install additional ground rods in a location where the earth is moist all year round. It may also be necessary to add more ground rods and/or use a ground return wire on a multi-wire fence d) Check the voltage from the battery. The fence charger will not work correctly if the input voltage from the battery is not 12 volts. 4. There may be loose or corroded connections where the wires are spliced or connected to the high voltage source. Also make sure all the earth ground system connections and ground return connections are solid and not corroded. It is important to insure a solid and complete electrical path for proper operation. 5. If the charger output voltage is low or zero when the charger is disconnected from the fence, then replace or repair the high voltage charger/energizer.
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